Waste To Wealth: Bijayshanti Tongbram From Manipur Makes Lotus Silk, One Of The World's Rarest Fabrics

The pristine pink Lotus flower that emerges from the mud without stains is often viewed as a symbol of purity. But, did you know, that this beautiful flower is also a source of the rarest type of silk in the world? Lotus silk is considered a highly exclusive fibre and is extracted by only a few expert craftspersons across the world. One of them is Bijayshanti Tongbram from Thanga Tongbram village of Manipur. Bijayshanti lives a few kilometers away from one of India's largest freshwater lakes, the Loktak lake.

Loktak lake is a source of livelihood for thousands of fishermen, but this lake is also famous for Lotuses, blooming on the surface of the lake for as far as the eyes can see. Over the years, harvesting Lotus has become a source of income for many families in the neighbouring areas. Not only does the Lotus flower bear fruit, but the stem is a great source of dietary fibre. Such is the versatility of this flower.

Surrounded by Lotus plants on the Loktak lake, Bijayshanti researched ways in which she could tap the potential of the flower. As a student of botany, Bijayshanti wanted to marry creativity and craftsmanship with utility and sustainability. And that is when she figured out how to use the resources available to her in abundance.

Recalling the birth of the idea, Bijayshanti said,

The idea came to me in the year 2014, while I was studying botany at GP Women's College. Since then, I wanted to learn about aquatic plants, especially the plant habitat of Loktak lake, and how to utilise it to make a product of utility. I read numerous journals about Lotus, Lily and several other aquatic plants, and I found out about the uses and importance of the Lotus plant. Later, I learnt how yarn can be produced from Lotus stem, and I started making silk.

Extracting silk from the Lotus stem has been in practice since the early 1900s. Lotus silk is so rare that it is only made in Cambodia, Myanmar and Vietnam and now Bijayshanti has introduced this art in India. The process of making silk is completely manual since the fibres are very delicate, and needs high expertise to be turned into a yarn. This also makes it an expensive fabric, 10 times more expensive than regular silk.

Bijayshanti leaves for Loktak lake early in the morning to collect the Lotus in her country boat. She carefully chooses the stem and the flower that can be used to extract the fibre. She may be surrounded by flower, but there are several factors to consider while choosing the ones to collect. The quality of fibre is crucial. The fibre has to be extracted while the stem is still wet, or it breaks. And so Bijayshanti harvests the stems every day.

Once the flowers and the stems are collected, it is time for the sensitive process of extracting the fibre. A special wooden table is prepared for the process. She sprinkles water on the surface of the table to keep it moist; this will prevent the delicate fibre from breaking. Next, the stems are cut, snapped, and twisted to extract the fibre. On splitting the stem, a gum-like substance is produced, which is layered repeatedly on the table. Once layered, she rolls the filaments gently with her hands to make them into a thread. These threads are then dried under the sun for a couple of days before they are ready to be woven.

Sharing the obstacles she go through in the process, Bijayshanti said,

I do face many challenges because I did not take any specific course or training to create this product. All of this is a result of my own self-study and hard work, along with the help given to me by the women of my locality. They contribute a lot. Also, since it is a new fashion, I'm concerned about whether people will accept it or not. I wanted to make something sustainable and environmentally friendly because of the pollution that exists nowadays. And Lotus is widely grown in Loktak lake. So, I got the idea and started producing Lotus silk as my concept is waste to wealth.

Once dried, the thread is spun into a yarn. It is all done by hand, and so the process is as authentic as it can be.

Yarns are then prepared for the final product. BIjayshanti uses traditional handloom to weave scarves and other products. The indigo dye used in her scarves is also plant-based. Talking about her products, Bijayshanti said,

Since my product is sustainable, it is not harmful to the environment. It is bio-degradable and will act against pollution.

Such has been the impact of Bijayshanti's work, that the Prime Minister also mentioned the young innovator in an episode of his monthly radio programme ‘Mann Ki Baat'. Recollecting the mention, Bijayshanti said,

It was in 2020 that the Prime Minister of India spoke about my innovation in 'Mann Ki Baat'. It was a great pleasure, as I did not expect that the PMO will recognise my work, as I stay in a corner of India where people usually don't get recognised. I was extremely happy and truly inspired.

Apart from being sustainable, Lotus silk has other benefits too. The fabric isn't just soft, breathable, and without any toxins or chemicals, it has definite benefits on one's health too. Bijayshanti said,

There are several health benefits that Lotus silk has over the normal clothes that we wear. It prevents headaches and keeps the lungs and heart healthy. It keeps you warm during the winters and cool in summers.

The Lotus flower is considered the symbol of purity, and now that purity has taken on a tangible form as fibre. With growing conversations around sustainable fashion, the demand for this plant-based fabric has seen an increase too, especially in metropolitan cities. Talking about the demand of Lotus silk based products, Bijayshanti, Founder of Sanajing Sana Thambal said,

Nowadays, people prefer to buy sustainable, eco-friendly products that are not harmful to the body or the environment. So, customers demand such products and we make them as per request. The silk is used to make scarves, neckties, sarees, shawls, and so on, and it is sold in the market under the brand name ‘Sanajing Sana Thambal'.

Bijayshanti is the first person in her family to start this business. Representing young India, Bijayshanti has carved a niche for herself with her skills, knowledge and experience. This young entrepreneur is not just promoting sustainability but is truly giving a conscience to her clothes.

Manipur is considered the land of traditions. During ancient times, men were sent to faraway lands either for farming purpose or to fight wars, and the women stayed back to take care of their fields, the household and to sell their produce. These traditions led to the creation of markets where only women work, but these markets are not just limited to farm produce anymore.

Today, one can find a handloom in almost every household in Manipur. Items of traditional clothing wear are woven on handlooms and sold in these markets, making it another source of income for women across the state. Bijayshanti saw this as an opportunity for herself and for the women in her community. She started training and employing women in her area to help her make products at a faster pace. She said,

Currently, there are 30 women working here. I have trained them, starting from extraction to the making of the final product.

Several women extract fibre at their homes and give her the fabric which she uses to stitch scarves and neckties. Today this young entrepreneur has not only opened avenues for employment in rural areas but has also established herself in an untapped market. With her innovation, Bijayshanti is showing the way to sustainability and conscious fashion choices. She said,

One should buy clothes that are suitable for use, and avoid buying clothes that you don't need. If you don't wear them, it will be a waste and will only harm the environment.

Now you know that the secret to a sustainable wardrobe lies in nature itself. And no, you don't have to make lotus silk at home. Just conscious and mindful fashion choices will do.