No trip to Kerala is complete without sampling one of the state's most delicious all-day staples. This is particularly true if you're anywhere in Central Kerala where the most delicious appams (also known as hoppers) are crafted. The perfect appam has a soft centre and a thinner than wafer crust with the perfect-sized tiny holes. This perfect consistency is achieved by a delicate process of pouring the batter into the Appa chatti (or Appam pan) - you need to allow one part of the batter to settle at the bottom while tilting the dish to ensure that the rest of the batter spreads evenly around the inside of the dish.
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While the classic Appam is a popular staple in Kerala, it's also an integral part of Tamil Nadu cuisine where the dish is believed to have originated. The dish gets a mention in Perumpanarruppatai, a famous collection of poems that can be traced back to the third century AD. The Tamil Nadu version is softer and doesn't usually feature the crispy textures of its Kerala counterpart. That can be attributed to the deeper dishes that are typically used. It's in Coimbatore that I tried one of the most scrumptious versions of the Appam in Tamil Nadu.
Tiffen House has been a popular local institution in Coimbatore for a few decades now. This unassuming eatery is tucked away in the busy RS Puram neighbourhood of the city. One of their signature snacks is the Butter Appam. It's probably where pan pizza meets a classic appam. Crusty, almost crispy outside and soft on the outside. Your dietitian might not approve but you can save this dish for your cheat day. The restaurant serves this dish like a pizza with a touch of drama at the table where they use a small plate to split the appam into tiny quarters that makes it easy to share. The key to this recipe is the white, unsalted butter (see recipe below). The butter appam is served with Tiffen House's signature pudina (mint) chutney. You can try making the Butter Appam at home or bookmark Tiffen House for your next visit to Coimbatore:
Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan
Raw Rice- 1 cup
Parboiled Rice - 1 cup
Grated Coconut - 1 cup
Thick poha - 1/4 cup
Water - 1 cup
Baking soda -1/4 tbsp
Unsalted butter -3-4 tbsp
Oil/ghee-2 tbsp
Salt as required
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Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan
3/4 cup Mint leaves
1/2 cup Grated Coconut
2-3 Green chilies
1 tbsp roasted Bengal gram
A small piece of tamarind
1/2 tsp turmeric
Salt as required
1 tbsp Oil
1/2 tbsp Mustard seeds
1/2 tbsp Urad dal
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