Kushalta Ke Kadam: Meet Kusum Devi, Master Of Sujani, An Ancient Form Of Embroidery From Bihar

The USHA Silai School program is skilling artists and craftspeople in traditional stitching and sewing techniques so as to keep India's rich and diverse crafts heritage from dying. It is also restoring the dying hopes and dreams of marginalised women. Kusum Devi of Hasanpur, Bihar, a master of an ancient form of embroidery called Sujani, is one such woman who fought against all odds to make a name for herself.

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After her family abandoned her, Kusum was found by the Bhojpur Mahila Kala Kendra that helped her get liberated from her miseries. The Bhojpur Mahila Kala Kendra or BMKK, with the help of the USHA Silai school, gave Kusum Devi a purpose. She now has her own Silai school. While talking about her journey she said,

Earlier, my family's condition was very poor. We were financially so weak, that we could not do anything. I joined the Bhojpur Mahila Kala Kendra. I learnt a lot of work there. I started my own Silai Centre in 2015. I teach girls at home, and we are also getting machines. Once I trained the girls, I applied my knowledge to start Sujani embroidery work at home.

Sujani is an ancient form of embroidery from Bihar. Sujani breaks up into ‘Su' which means facilitating, and ‘jani' which means birth. Quilts are made by stitching together colourful patches of old clothes and then Sujani embroidery was done with colourful threads to create motifs and designs. Explaining more about Sujani art form, Anita Gupta, Secretary, Bhojpur Mahila Kala Kendra,

Sujani is an art form that our grandmothers used to practice. It is an ancient craft, which is slowly losing its identity. Mothers would produce items with Sujani to send with their daughters when they got married. We wanted to take this art form beyond this practice, and to the whole world. With this aim in mind, we are giving trainings in the art of Sujani, so that the craft never dies.

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With help of Bhojpur Mahila Kala Kendra and the USHA Silai School initiative, Kusuma Devi has turned her life around. She was already an expert in Sujani, and the USHA Silai school program trained her in sewing and stitching as well. Now Kusum Devi is skilling other women too. She said,

I joined USHA, and they started sending me to train others. They would tell me to go and teach other women, and also earn for myself. USHA is really good. Because of them, my financial condition has improved and I have made huge progress. I had a small house, and have now purchased a bigger one, I teach all the girls and women there.

The USHA Silai school program has not just given women new skills, it has also provided Kusum Devi and her students a platform to sell their products. Kusum said,

When we receive orders, we supply them with our Sujani work. The smaller pieces go for Rs. 4,000, and the bigger ones are for Rs. 5,000. It is profitable for us. All the material is sold outside. I have travelled to a lot of places, Goa, Mumbai, Punjab, Haryana, and Delhi.

Women like Kusum Devi are ‘Silai heroes' in more ways than one. Not only are they a crucial link in keeping alive the dying art forms like Sujani, they are also helping empower other women in their villages with self-confidence and resilience.

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